Total Scout Notes

THIS BLOG PROVIDES YOU ALL ABOUT THE NOTES OF SCOUT SYLLABUS STARTING FROM

PRAVESH

TO

RAJYAPURASKAR ......................

PRAVESH

1. Have a general knowledge of the scout movement.

2. Scout law and scout promise.

3. Scout motto, sign, salute and left hand shake.

4. Good turn.

5. Uniform:- Know the parts of uniform and how to wear it.

6. Know the composition and significance of the National flag, Bharath scouts and guides flag and world scout flag.

7. National Anthem:- Sing correctly the National anthem.

8. Prayer song and Flag song.

1. Have a general knowledge of scout movement.

Lord Badon powell of Giwell chief scout of the world

Robert Stephenson Smyth Baden powell know to millions by his magical initials. B.P is founder of the Boy Scout and Girl Guide movement was born in London on the 22nd February 1857. He was the sixth son of professor H.G Baden powell and Henrietta errance, danghter of Admiral William smith professor Baden Powell died when B.P was three years old and the bunder of bringing up the families, therefore, developed entirely on MR. Baden powell. He allowed them a good deal of freedom to go about and learn things from themselves. This early up bringing gave B.P. The real start for his future life as a solding and an out doors man.

He collected together twenty boys and held in a camp for them on BROWN SEA ISLAND is august 1907. After the grate and successful camp he decided to write his how famous book scouting for boys. It was published in 1908. Boys every were in England began to buy his book to start. Scouting on their own. Thus patrols and troops began to spring up rapidly all over England.

After the formation of the bag scout movement. B.P come to India twice, once is 1921 and again in 1937 to attend the first all-India Jamboree in Delhi and to attend in third separate organization. After going back he attended world Jamboree in Holland. This was the last Jamboree.

The ends come suddenly on the 8th January 1941. He was buried in Nyeri amidst nature's most beautiful vistus with his head to the North to the snow copped mountains of Kenya which he loved so much.

2. Scout law and scout promise.

SCOUT LAW

1. A scout is trust worthy

2. A scout is loyal.

3. A scout is a friend to all and a brother to every other scout.

4. A scout is courteous.

5. A scout is a friend to animals and loves nature.

6. A scout is disciplined and helps to protect public property.

7. A scout is courageous.

8. A scout is thrifty.

9. A scout is pure in thought, and deed.

SCOUT PROMISE

On my honor, I promise that I will do my best:-

1. To do my duty to God and my country.

2. To help other people and

3. To obey the scout law.

3. Scout motto, sign salute and left hand shake

SCOUT MOTTO

Be prepared!

Meaning: -  1. Physically strong

                      2. Mentally Awake

                      3. Morally straight.

SCOUT SIGN

The sign is given at the time of investiture or at time of renewal of the scout promise.

1. The 3 finger represents 3 fold promises.

2. Thumbs finger over little finger represents the younger should obey the elders .

SCOUT SALUTE

It is always done with the right hand. It is the privilege of the one who sees first to salute first - Irrespective of rank.

LEFT HAND SHAKE

"THE Bravest of the Braves"

Our Founder conceived left hand shake as a form of greeting for the members of the movement. The idea originated from an incident in his military career in South Africa.
When Colonel Baden Powell entered the capital city of the Ashanti people in 1896 he was met by one of the chiefs named prempeh who came to him holding out his left hand. B.P held out his right in return but the chief said: NO, in my country the bravest of the brave shake with the left hand. So began the left handshake of the world wide brotherhood of scouts.

4. Good Turn Every day

5. Uniform: - know the parts of uniform and how to wear it.

1. Barrel

2. Badge
3. Owgal
4. Brother Hood badge
5. International scout badge
6. Scarf
7. Belt
8. Rope
9. Socks
10. Shoes

6. Know the composition and significance of the National flag, Bharat scouts and guides Flag and world scout flag.

NATIONAL FLAG

The National flag of India was adopted in its present from during a meeting of the constituent Assembly held on 22^nd July 1947, 24 days before India’s independence from the British on 15^th August 1947,

Designed by: Pingali venkayya. Tricolour “saffrom” at the top, white in the middle, and green at the bottom. In the centre, there is a navy blue wheel with 24 spokes, know as the Ashoka chakra.

THE BHARAT SCOUT AND GUIDES FLAG

The Bharat scouts and Guides flag shall be in dark blue colour, the emblem in golden yellow shall be in the centre of the flag with Ashoka chakra in blue colour.

Size of association Flag: 180 cm x 120 cm

Size of troop Flag: 120 cm x 80 cm

Size of emblem in Flag: 45 cm x 3 cm

Ratio of the Flag: 3:2

WORLD SCOUTS FLAG

The world scout flag consists of the world scout badge in a white encircled by a white reef knot. It is set on purple back ground, the size of the flag will be in the ratio of 3:2. Purple is the international colour and stands for the service oriented nature of scouting. The knot is the symbol of the scout brotherhood.

The flag was approved in 1951 at the 8 the world conference held in Lisbon.

7. National anthem

The Indian national anthem, composed by Rabindranath Tagore, it was first sung at Calcutta session of Indian national congress on 27^th December 1911. jana gana mana was officially adopted by the constituent. Assembly as the Indian national anthem on January 24^th, 1950. Timing: 52 sec

Jana gana mana adhinayaka, jayahe

Bharata bhagya vidhata

Punjab sindhu Gujarata maratha

Dravida utkala ganga

Vindhya himachala Yamuna ganga

Uchala jaladhi taranga

Tava shubha name jage

Tava shabha ashish maange

Gahe tava jaya gatha

Jana gana mangala dayaka jaya he

Bharata bhagya vidhata

Jaya he, jaya he, jaya he

Jaya jaya , jaya, jaya he!

8. PRAYER SONG

Written by : veer deva veer LT/s former soc, Haryana, one of the freedom fighter.

Daya kar dan bhakti ka

Hamen pareamathma Dena,

Daya karana hamari atma

Men suddhata Dena.

Hamare dhyan men aoo

Prabhu ankho men bas jao.

Andheri dill men aakar ke

Param jyothi jaga Dena.

Bahado prem ki ganga

Dilon men prem ka sagar,

Hamen apas me miljulkar

Prabhu rehna sikha Dena.

Hamara kaarm ho seva,

Hamara dharm ho seva,

Sadai man ho seva ho

Sevakchar Bana Dena.

Vatan ke vaste jeena,

Vatan ke vastes marna,

Vatan per jan Fida karma

Prabhuy hamko sikha Dena.

FLAG SONG

Bharat scout guide jhanda

Uncha sada rahega,

Uncha sada rahega jhanda

Uncha sada rahega.

Neela rang gagan sa vistrut

Bhatru bhav failatha,

Tridal kamal nit teen pratigna onki yad dilate.

Aur chakr kehata hei

Prathipal agey kadam badega.

Uncha sada rahega jhanda

Uncha sada rahega.

Bharat scout rahega.

PRATHAMA SOPAN

Ø Learn about your patrol, its flag, yell or song and corner.

Ø Know general rules of health, practice B.P six exercise or six asana or surya namaskara .

Ø Whipping, roof knot, sheet bend, clove hitch, bowline.

Ø Learn wood craft signs and follow a track.

Ø Learn and practice hand and whistle signals.

Ø Know the contents of first aid box.

Ø Participate in 2 patrol outdoor meeting or a patrol day hike.

Ø Adopt for purpose of keeping clean a park.

Ø Participate nine any 2 of the following:

a) Undertake a nature study project.

b) Discuss with your scout and render some services involving any one of the points of scout lay and sumit a report to your scout master.

c) Visit a village panchayat samiti block development office municipal office and learn about the service.

12) Daily good at home and maintain a dairy at least for a month.

Test for pratham sopan

1) Know the patrol call and general rules of heal exactise B.P six exercise or six asana or namaskara.

2) Learn wood; craft sign’s and follow a track.

3) Tie and show uses of ;rope knot sheet bend.

4) Participate in troop games.

5) Practice orderly movements and simple drill for smartness.

6) Know the content’s of the first aid box. Demo the use of roller bandages and triangle badge collar and cub sling. Dander first aid ficut’s scratches.

7) Participate in two patrols out door meeting or patrol day hike.

8) Make a gadget or hand craft useful at home.

9) Adopt for purpose of dean a park or a water point or a bus stop or any other public spot or a building for a week.

10) Participate in any two of the following activities.

I. Undertake a nature study project in consulatic with your patrol leader.

II. Discuss with your scout and render some service involving any one of the points of . scout lay and submit report to your scout master.

III. Visit a village panchayat samiti block development office municipal offices and learn about the services.

IV. Daily good at home and maintain a dairy at least for a month.

PATROL

It is a method of training in leadership and in discipline by which scouts are put into permanent teams under their own leaders. It is a system of learning by do9ing and it can show concrete principles working in practice. Each patrol shall bear the name of a flower chosen in consultation with the patrol in council and every member of the patrol shall wear the emblem of the patrol on the uniform.

PATROL FLAG

Each patrol has a flag that display the emblem of the patrol. The patrol flag is the .
trianglular shape, white in colour with emblem in red colour. The length of the base is 20 cm and sides 30 cm each. The best type of flag is the one which has been designed and made by the patrol it self.

PATROL SONG

Make up a short catching song with your patrol. It will not only adjust to your patrol activities, . buy bring all of you closer still and increase the patrol spirit.

PATROL CORNER

Generally patrol corner means two things one is the time given to patrol activities during the company meetings. The other one means the physical place that is located to the patrol in the meeting place.

HEALTH RULES

The founder of scouts and guides movement, Baden Powell says, a scout and guide should make one self strong and healthy by good feedi8ng and moderate exercise, so that  when they becoming strong and healthy, they make others also strong and healthy

v   Fresh air:-
  It is essential to breathe to breathe fresh air. Good health depends on good blood and to keep the blood wholesome, it must be purified by the oxygen which is contained in fresh air and which is taken into our lungs as we breathe in. the supply of fresh air and oxygen should be constantly newed.

v Sunlight :It (deprived) our bodies are deprived of the sun will not be healthy, and we shall not be able to with stand disease. Fresh air and sunlight are essential to life.

v Cleanliness: This is a very important thing because it cores such a wide subject cleanliness of body, surroundings and mind all contribute to a healthy body and health outlook on life.

FIRST AID, BANDAGES AND SLINGS

SLINGS :-

Slings are used to support an injured arm, or to supplement treatment for another injury such as fractured ribs. have at least two of these bandages as essential items.

Although triangular bandages are preferable, any material, ex. tie, belt, or piece of twine or rope, can be used in an emergency. If no likely material is to hand, and injured arm can be adequately supported by inserting it inside the casualty’s shirt or blouse. Similarly, a safety pin applied to a sleeve and secured to clothing on the chest may suffice.

There are essentially three types of sling; the arm sling for injuries to the forearm, the St John sling

for injuries to the shoulder, and the ‘collar-and-cuff’ or clove hitch for injuries to the upper arm and as supplementary support to fractured ribs.

On application of any sling, always check the circulation to the limb by feeling for the pulse at the wrist, or squeezing a fingernail and observing for change of color in the nail bed.

The Arm Sling

1. Support the injured forearm approximately parallel to the ground with the wrist slightly higher than the elbow.

2. Place an open triangular bandage between the body and the arm, with its apex towards the elbow.

3. Extend the upper point of the bandage over the shoulder on the uninjured side.

Generally, the most effective sling is made with a triangular bandage. Every first aid kit, no matter how small, should

4. Bring the lower point up over the arm, across the shoulder on the injured side to join the upper point and tie firmly with a reef knot.

5. Ensure the elbow is secured by folding the excess bandage over the elbow and securing with a safety pin.

St John Sling

1. Support the casualty’s arm with the elbow beside the body and the hand extended towards the uninjured shoulder.

2. Place an opened triangular bandage over the forearm and hand, with the apex towards the elbow.

3. Extend the upper point of the bandage over the uninjured shoulder.

4. Tuck the lower part of the bandage under the injured arm, bring it under the elbow and around the back and extend the lower point up to meet the upper point at the shoulder.

5. Tie firmly with a reef knot.

6. Secure the elbow by folding the excess material and applying a safety pin, then ensure that the sling is tucked under the arm giving firm support.

‘Collar-and-Cuff’ (Clove Hitch)

1. Allow the elbow to hang naturally at the side and place the hand extended towards the shoulder on the uninjured side.

2. Form a clove hitch by forming two loops — one towards you, one away from you.

3. Put the loops together by sliding your hands under the loops and closing with a “clapping” motion. If you are experienced at forming a clove hitch, then apply a clove hitch directly on the wrist, but take care not to move the injured arm.

4. Slide the clove hitch over the hand and gently pull it firmly to secure the wrist.

5. Extend the points of the bandage to either side of the neck and tie firmly with a reef knot.

6. Allow the arm to hang comfortably. Should further support be required, ex. For support to fractured ribs, apply triangular bandages around the body and upper arm to hold the arm firmly against the chest.

ROLLER BANDAGE

Roller bandages are long strips of material which are rolled up for easy use. They come in different widths and material.

Roller Bandages: Gauze or Cotton Roller Bandage

Gauze and cotton bandages are non-conforming. This means that they do not stretch, and will not mould around the part of the body to which they are applied. Non-conforming bandages do not stay on very well. If you have both types of bandage in your first aid kit, it is best to use the conforming bandages first. Roller Bandages: Conforming Roller Bandage Conforming bandages are designed to stretch. This allows them to mould to the shape of the parts to which they are applied. Conforming bandages can be used on their own to provide support to an injured joint or muscle.They can also secure pads and dressings, when this is necessary to control bleeding

Applying Roller Bandages

All roller bandages should be applied in the following manner.
1. Hold the bandage so that the head or rolled part is on top and the tail is pointing inward.
2. Pass the rolled part from hand to hand, allowing it to unroll as you go. Make sure that each turn overlaps the last by two thirds of its width.
3. Fasten the end with tape or tuck the end in and check that the b andage is not too tight.

Improvising



There may be occasions where you need to give first aid to a sick or injured person but no first aid kit is available. 



If a kit is not available, you will need to improvise first aid equipment, by using whatever you can find.

For example, a broomstick or umbrella could be used to splint a fractured limb. A couple of T-shirts could be used as padding around an injury. You should not let the absence of a first aid kit prevent you from offering first aid to a casualty.



If you needed to improvise a dressing for a person with a cut on their hand you would  use a handkerchief. A clean handkerchief makes an excellent pad or dressing for small wounds

If you needed to improvise a bandage you could use stockings. Clean pantyhose or stockings make excellent short bandages.

If you needed to improvise a splint for a suspected fractured arm you would use a newspaper. A newspaper makes a useful splint because when it is folded and creased it becomes quite solid and will support and immobilise a fracture very well


If you needed to improvise a sling for a person with an injured upper arm you would use a belt.




The belt would make an ideal sling because it will easily take the weight ofthe arm. Because it is fairly wide, it is also less likely to interfere with circulation.



TRIANGULAR BANDAGEs






 A First  Aid  Kit will typically contain  triangular  bandages  which are  large      triangular pieces of material, with two sides about 1 metre long,and  the third about 1.4 metres.


          Triangular bandages can be used as:



Collar & Cuff Sling





  St John Sling
 



 Full Arm Sling
 



  Broad Bandage
 



  Narrow Bandage
 





 Pad




   Triangular bandages: Collar & Cuff Sling 



The collar and cuff sling is useful for a casualty with a fracture of the upper arm or an injured hand. 






 Triangular bandages: St John Sling

The St John sling is useful for a casualty with an injured shoulder, collar bone, hand or fingers.

It is the best sling for shoulder and collarbone injuries because it supports the whole arm and takes the weight of the arm off the injured shoulder or collar bone. In the case of hand or finger injuries, it can be used to elevate the injured part.




Triangular bandages: Full Arm Sling 


The full arm sling is used to support an injured forearm or wrist.

It is the best sling for these injuries because it forms a comfortable cradle which spreads the weight of the forearm evenly along its whole length. This prevents the damaged parts from pushing together or pull ing apart as they would if the other slings were used.




Triangular bandages: Broad Bandage


A broad bandage is simply a triangular bandage which is folded and used  to tie on splints and dressings.



First, you fold it in half, point to base. 


Then you fold it in half again.

You now have a broad bandage.








Triangular bandage: Narrow Bandage

A narrow bandage has one more fold than the broad bandage and is mainly used for the collar & cuff sling.

First, you fold it in half, point to base.

Then you fold it in half again to make a broad bandage.

Then you fold it in half again.

You now have a narrow bandage.






Triangular bandage: Pad


If you do not have a sterile pad in your First Aid Kit, you can use a triangular bandage as a pad.


 First, you fold it in half, point to base. 




Then you fold it in half again to make a broad bandage. 




Then you fold it in half again.




You now have a narrow bandage. 




Then fold the two ends into the middle. 




Now fold both ends into the middle again. 








Fold what is left in half to make a pad.






 When a triangular bandage is folded like this, it is easy to store    It in a  first aid kit.




      You can also use it in this form if you need to control bleeding.

HEAD, KNEW,FOOT/HAND BANDAGES

Uses of Triangular bandage

Head bandage

• Stand behind the casualty. Use a triangular bandage as a whole cloth with a narrow

hem folded along the base. Place the centre of the base in the middle of the

forehead, close to the eyebrows.

• Bring the point over the top of the head to cover the dressing, and down the back of

the head, cross over the point, and around the head to the front. Tie the ends

together, using a reef knot, low on the forehead.

• Steady the head with one hand, and gently pull the point down to put the desired

amount of pressure on the dressing. Fold the point up toward the top of the head

and secure it carefully with a safety pin or tuck it under the back crisscross.

Knee or elbow bandage

• Use a triangular bandage as a whole cloth with a narrow hem folded along the

base. Place the centre of the base on the leg below the kneecap with the point

toward the top of the leg (or to bandage an elbow, on the forearm with the point

toward the shoulder).

• Bring the ends around the joint, crossing over the point in front of the elbow or at

the back of the knee.

• Bring the ends up and tie off over the point. Pull the point up to put the right amount

of pressure on the dressing and then fold it down and secure it with a safety pin or

tuck it under the knot.

Foot or hand bandage

• Use a triangular bandage as a whole cloth. Place it on a flat surface with the point

away from the casualty

• Place the foot or hand on the triangular bandage with the toes or fingers toward

the point, leaving enough bandage at the ankle or wrist to fully cover the part.

Bring the point up and over the foot or hand to rest on the lower leg or wrist.

• Bring the ends alongside the foot of hand and crisscross the folded ends up and

around the ankle or wrist. Cross over the point and wrap any extra bandage before

trying it off.

• Tie off over the point. If the point extends beyond the knot, pull it up to apply the

desired pressure. Fold it downward and tuck under the knot.

BANDAGES -

Roller & Triangular Bandage is applied:-

(a) To retain dressing and splints in position and to immobilize fractured limbs. Knots should never be tied over a fracture.

(b) To afford support to an injured part (e.g. sprained ankle) or in the form of a sling.

(c) To control bleeding.

(d) To reduce or prevent swelling.

(e) To assist in the lifting and carrying of casualties

Triangular bandages are made by cutting a piece of linen or calico, not less than

thirty eight inches square, diagonally into two pieces, A triangular bandage has

three borders. The longest is called the “base” and the other two the “side”. There

are three corners; the upper one (opposite the base) is called “point” and the other

the “ends” . The bandage may be applied:-

(a) As a whole cloth spread out to its full extend, e.g., chest bandage.

(b) As a broad bandage made by bringing the point down to the center of the . base and then folding he bandage again in the same direction .

(c) As narrow bandage made by folding the broad bandage once again in the . same direction .

It is sometimes advisable to halve the size of the triangular bandage by bringing the two ends together before folding it into the broad or narrow bandage.

To secure the ends of a bandage a reef knot must be used.

For the Shoulder:

Stand facing the casualty’s injured side and place the center of an open bandage on his shoulder, with the point running up the side of the neck. Fold the hem inwards along the base, carry the ends round the middle of the arm, cross and tie them on the outer side so as to secure the lower border of the bandage. Apply anarm sling. Turn down the point of the first bandage over the knot of the sling, draw it tight and pin it .

For the Elbow:

Bend the casualty’s elbow to a right angle. Fold to narrow bandage, hen inwards along the base of an open
bandage. Lay the point on the back of the upper arm and the middle of the base on the back of the forearm; Cross the ends in front of the elbow, then round the upper arm and tie above the elbow . Bring the point down over the knot and elbow pin it. If it is not advisable to bend the elbow, a narrow or broad bandage should be used according to the needs of the case.

For the Hand:

place an open bandage under the palm the injury being uppermost with the point away from the casualty and
the base of the bandage at the wrist. Bring the point over the hand to the wrist and after folding the inwards along the base of the bandage, pass the ends round the wrist, cross them and finally tie over the point . Bring the point over the knot and pin it to the bandage over the hand. After the application of a dressing and bandage for wounds of upper limb, a sling should support the limb.

For the Knee:

Bend the casualty’s knee to a right angle. Fold a narrow bandage hem inwards along the base of an open bandage. Lay the point on his thigh and the middle of the base below his knee; cross the ends behind his knee, then round his thigh and tie above his knee on the front of this thigh. Bring the point down over the knot and knee and pin it.

If it is not advisable to bend the knee a narrow or broad bandage should be used according to the needs of the case .

For the Foot:

Place the casualty’s foot on the center of an open bandage, with his toes towards the point. Draw up the point over his instep, bring the ends forward so that his heel is covered and cross them; pass the ends round the ankle, cross at back and then tie them in form. Draw the point forward and pin it to the bandage over the instep.

FIRST AID FOR CUTS AND SCRATCHES

Things You’ll Need:

Water

Soap

Antibiotic cream

Adhesive bandage

Antiseptic (optional)

Step 1

First and foremost, know when to seek medical attention:

If your injury involves any of the following, contact a doctor:

The cut is deep

The cut is long. Long cuts are considered to be approximately 1 inch when on . the hand or foot and 2 inches when elsewhere on the body.

The cut is jagged.

The injury involved a pet, especially a cat.

The injury involved a wild animal.

The injury is due to a bite, either human or animal.

The wound has debris stuck in it after cleansing.

The wound is bleeding heavily.

The wound will not stop bleeding after applying direct pressure for 10 minutes.

The injury is a puncture wound.

Also contact your doctor if you are overdue for a tetanus booster. For minor cuts,

scratches and scrapes, be sure you have had at least three tetanus shots before

the injury and you are within 10 years of your last booster. For more serious cuts,

be sure you have had three tetanus shots before the injury and you are within 5

years of your last booster.

Step 2

First aid when very little bleeding is involved:

If a cut, scratch or scrape is minor and has very slight bleeding, the best first step is

to clean the wound.

Rinse the cut, scratch or scrape under running cool to lukewarm water. If the cut is in

an area too difficult to get under a faucet, fill a clean cup or bottle with water and pour

it over the wound.

Use only mild soap, gently applied with a gauze pad or soft, clean cloth, when

cleaning a cut, scratch or scrape. Be sure to remove all soap from the wound by

rinsing thoroughly. Do not use strong soaps when providing first aid to a cuts,

scratches or scrapes, as they can cause additional irritation to the injured area.

Under no circumstances should you use strong cleansers or detergents, such as

bleach, to clean your injury.

Step 3

First aid when there is bleeding involved:

If a cut is minor and bleeding a little more heavily, your first step is to apply direct

pressure to aid the blood in clotting. Use gauze or a clean, soft cloth and apply

firm, but gentle, pressure for several minutes. Elevate the injured area above the

level of your heart whenever possible. If the blood begins to soak through the

material, do not remove the gauze or cloth. Simply place another piece of gauze or

cloth on top of the one you are currently holding and continue to apply pressure.

Cuts on the head, face and mouth usually bleed more heavily than minor cuts

elsewhere on the body due to the large number of blood vessels contained in these

areas. Do not be alarmed. Keep applying pressure until the bleeding stops.

Once the bleeding is under control, gently remove the cloth and begin cleansing the

wound as outlined above. Bleeding may start again during the cleansing process.

Use another clean cloth or gauze pad to apply pressure again when you are done

cleaning the wound.

Step 4

First aid when debris is involved:

Many scrapes will have debris, such as gravel, sand or wood chips, embedded in

them. Increase the strength of the stream of the cleansing water to dislodge as

much debris as possible. Use a set of tweezers which have been thoroughly

cleaned with rubbing alcohol to remove any debris that remains at the surface. Do

not dig for any deeply embedded items. Do not use brushes or rough washcloths,

as doing so will cause more damage to the skin and increase the risk of infection. If

you cannot remove all the debris, seek the help of a medical professional.

Step 5

First aid with an antiseptic:

Hydrogen peroxide or other antiseptics are not needed for all wounds. Cleaning a

cut, scrape or scratch with hydrogen peroxide causes additional irritation to the

injury and can potentially kill off healthy cells needed for healing. Thoroughly

cleaning the wound as described above is usually enough. If the cut, scratch or

scrape occurred in a very dirty place or while handling items such as raw meat, a

little hydrogen peroxide during the initial cleaning may be warranted. Be sure to

rinse thoroughly to prevent continued irritation.

Step 6

First aid using adhesive bandages:

Opinions differ as to whether all cuts and scratches need to be bandaged. If the

cut or scratch is in an area that will not become dirty, it is fine to leave it

uncovered. Apply a topical antibiotic cream a couple times a day to keep it moist

and fight infection.

If the cut or scratch is on an area that will easily become dirty (a hand or foot) or

an area that will be irritated by clothing (a knee), apply an adhesive bandage or

gauze and medical tape. Continue to use a bandage in these areas for 7 to 10

days, or until the injury is well healed.

Due to the fact scrapes dry out easily and can cause scarring, bandages are

generally recommended for them. Extra large adhesive bandages are available in

stores. You can also use sterile gauze and medical tape to cover the area.

Bandages hold in moisture, which aids in healing. This same moisture also provides

the perfect breeding ground for any bacteria left in the wound. Always use a topical

antibiotic cream when using a bandage. Change the bandage daily, or if it becomes

wet or dirty. Reapply the antibiotic cream with each bandage change.

Step 7

Follow up to first aid:

Watch your cut, scratch or scrape for any sign of infection while it heals. Contact

your doctor if you see any signs of infection or if the wound looks odd to you in any

way. Signs of infection include:

Pain in the wound or in the surrounding area

Redness and warmth around the wound

Swelling in the area of the wound

Pus draining from the injury

Red streaks form around the injury

Fever

CONTENTS OF FIRST AID

First Aid Kit Contents List

The first aid kit contents should consist of all the basic essentials needed to treat an

injury. Prepare a first aid kit contents list and cross check it with a medical

practitioner. Visit the local drug store and buy proper quantity of requirements

according to the first aid kit contents list. The following first aid kits contents should

be present in your kit.

Bar of soap

2-inch roller bandage

1-inch roller bandage

1-inch adhesive

3-by-3-inch sterile pads

Triangular bandage

Assorted gauze pads

Adhesive strips

Oral thermometer

Scissors

Tweezers

Sunburn lotion

Lip salve

Poison-ivy lotion

Small flashlight (with extra batteries and bulb)

Absorbent cotton

Iodine tablets

Safety pins

Needles

Paper cups

Foot powder

Instant ice packs

Insect repellent

Insect sting swabs

Matches

Oil of Cloves

Hot-water bottle

Alcohol wipes

Acetaminophen and Ibuprofen

Gloves

1 blanket (space blanket)

1 blanket (space blanket)

Antibiotic Cream

Antiseptic solution (like hydrogen peroxide)

Antiseptic solution (like hydrogen peroxide)

First aid instruction booklet

List of emergency phone numbers

AIMS OF FIRST AID

The key aims of first aid can be summarised in three key points:

Preserve life – the overriding aim of all medical care, including first aid, is to save lives
Prevent further harm – also sometimes called prevent the condition from worsening, this covers both external factors, such as moving a patient away from any cause of harm, and applying first aid techniques to prevent worsening of the condition, such as applying pressure to stop a bleed becoming dangerous.

Promote recovery – first aid also involves trying to start the recovery process

from the illness or injury, and in some cases might involve completing a

treatment, such as in the case of applying a plaster to a small wound

THE ‘HAND SIGNALS, WHISTLE SIGNALS & WOODCRAFT SIGNS’

WOOD CRAFT SIGNS

The trail should be one which an observant scout can follow easily, but which an ordinary person would not even see!

* Make the signs on the right hand side of any track you may be following.

* The signs should be close to the ground or at least no higher than the knee.

* They should be regularly spaced.

* If more than one person is to follow a trail, the earlier ones must not spoil the trail for the others. The last person should destroy the signs when he has finished.

* The signs need not be large – about as big as your hand

* Make sure your signs can be recognised as man made. It is surprising how often twigs lying naturally on the ground look like an arrow.

HAND AND WHISTLE SIGNALS

Whistle Signals

When a Scoutmaster wants to call the Troop together he whistles “The Scout Call”, or uses a special Troop call.

Patrol Leaders thereupon call together their Patrols by giving their Patrol call. Then they take their Patrol “at the double” to the Scoutmaster.

Here are some whistle signals for Scout wide games.

One long blast means “Silence”, “Alert”; “Look out for my next signal”.
A succession of long, slow blasts means “Go out”, “Get farther away”, or “Advance”, “Extend,” “Scatter”.
A succession of short, sharp blasts means “Rally”, “Close in”,”Come together”, “Fall in”.
A succession of short and long blasts alternately means “Alarm”,”Look out”, “Be ready”, “Man your alarm posts”.
Three short blasts followed by one long one from the Scoutmaster calls up the Patrol Leaders-i.e., “Leaders come here”.

Any signal must be instantly obeyed at the double as fast as you can run-no matter what other job you may be doing at the time.

Hand Signals

Hand Signals-which can also be made by Patrol Leaders with their Patrol flags when necessary.

Hand waved several times across the face from side to side, or flag waved horizontally from side to side opposite the face means “No”, “Never mind”, “As you were”.

Hand or flag held high, and waved very slowly from side to side, at full extent of arm means “Extend”, “Go farther out”, “Scatter”.

Hand or flag held high, and waved quickly from side to side at full extent of arm means “Close in”, “Rally”, “Come here”.

Hand or flag pointing in any direction, means “Go in that direction”.

Clenched hand or flag jumped rapidly up and down several times means “Run”.

Hand or flag held straight up over head, means “Stop”, “Halt”.

THE ‘WHIPPING, KNOTS AND HITCHES

SHEET BEND

Sheet Bend (Flag Bend, Common Bend)

The Sheetbend is commonly used to tie two ropes of unequal thickness together. The thicker rope of the two is used to form a bight, and the thinner rope is passed up through the bight, around the back of the bight, and then tucked under itself.

The knot should be tied with both ends coming off the same side of the bend, as illustrated here. However it can easily be accidentally tied with the ends coming off opposite sides of the bend, when it is known as the Left Handed Sheet Bend. The Left Handed Sheet Bend is to be avoided as it is less secure.

Tip. If the ropes are of very unequal thickness, or placed under a lot of tension, use a Double Sheetbend.

SHEEP SHANK

The Sheepshank is a shortening knot, which enables a rope to be shortened non-destructively.

The knot is only really secure under tension, it will fall apart when slack. (See tip below.)

Tip. Use up to five half hitches each end of the Sheepshank to make the knot more secure, and for fine tuning the shortening.

Tip. Never cut ropes to shorten them! Always use a shortening knot such as the Sheepshank, or coil the excess.

ROUND A TURN AND TWO HALF HITCHES

Round turn and two half hitches

Used to secure a rope to a pole, or to start or finish a lashing. Pass the running end of the rope over the pole twice. Then pass the running end over the standing part of rope, and tuck it back up and under itself, forming a half hitch. Repeat this for a second half hitch.

This knot has a redeeming feature – it rarely jams!

Tip. Superior to a Clove Hitch for starting and finishing a lashing as the half hitches prevent this knot from unrolling, as they have the effect of locking the knot. The Clove Hitch looks neater (!) but it has a tendancy to unroll, and can be difficult to tie tightly when tying off.

REEF KNOT

An excellent general purpose knot for tying two pieces of string or twine together, the reef knot is possibly the most commonly used knot for the job, and is easy to learn. However, it cannot be overly stressed that the Reef knot is not a long term or secure knot, and it should only be used to finish parcels or bindings. In other cases, use a more secure method of bending two ropes together, such as a Sheetbend, a Double Sheetbend, or a Fisherman’s Knot.

Unfortunately, the Reef knot can easily change into a slipping Lark’s Head (see below), so it should never be used where life or limb are at risk.

Holding one end of each rope in each hand, pass the left rope over the right, and tuck under. Then pass the same rope, now in the right hand, over the left rope, and tuck under.

It is common to chant “Left over Right and Under, Right over Left and Under” when tying the knot. (This can also be performed as “Right over Left and Under, Left over Right and Under”.)

The reef knot can easliy be undone by gripping one loose end, and pulling it back over the knot, in the opposite direction, thus straightening the rope which is pulled. The other rope forms a Lark’s Head knot, and slips off the tugged rope.

The knot gets its name from its use on sailing ships, when the sails were “reefed” – rolled up and tied to the cross spar with a reef knot. To release the sail, the sailors would climb the rigging, and work their way along the cross spar, pulling the top end of the reef knot down. They only had to use one hand, holding on with the other. The weight of the sail would cause the reef knot to slip, and the sail would be released.

Tip. If you want to tie two ropes together of similar thickness then never use a Reef knot. Only use it with string and twine when tying parcels, whippings and bindings.

Tip. Never use this knot to join ropes of two different thicknesses.

FISHER's KNOT

Fisherman’s knot (Angler’s knot, English knot, Englishman’s bend, Halibut knot, True Lover’s bend, Waterman’s knot)

The Fisherman’s knot is used to tie two ropes of equal thickness together. It is used by fishermen to join fishing line, and is very effective with small diameter strings and twines.

Tie a Thumb knot, in the running end of the first rope around the second rope. Then tie a thumb knot in the second rope, around the first rope. Note the Thumb knots are tied such they lie snugly against each other when the standing ends are pulled.

Tip: When tying knots in monofilament line, moisten the line before pulling the knot tight. This helps to stop the line heating up with friction, which weakens it.

BOWLINE KNOT

A commonly used knot to tie a loop in the end of a rope. It has the advantage of not jamming, compared to some other loop forming knots (for example when using an overhand knot on a large bight to form a loop).

Form a small loop (the direction is important), and pass the free end of the knot up through the loop, around behind the standing part of the rope, and back down through the loop.

A chant used by many to remember this knot is “The rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree, and back down the hole again”, where the hole is the small loop, and the rabbit is the running end of the rope.

In the same way that a Left Handed Sheet bend is a Sheet bend that has the running end of the rope coming out of the wrong side of the knot, a cowboy bowline is a bowline that also has the running end of the rope coming out of the wrong side of the knot. It suffers the same problems as the left handed sheet bend.

Tip. Don’t be afraid to use this knot to form a loop of any size in rope.

Tip. To quickly identify if you have tied the Bowline normal or left handed, check to see that the running end exits the knot on the inside of the loop.

Tip. For added security, finish the knot with a stop knot such as a Figure of Eight knot to remove any possibility of the Bowline slipping.

Tip. If you use this knot in a man carrying situation – perhaps a rescue where a harness is unavailable – then you MUST use a stop knot as mentioned above.

CLOVE HITCH

Use to attach a rope to a pole, this knot provide a quick and secure result. It rarely jams, and can in fact suffer from the hitch unrolling under tension if the pole can turn. Often used to start and finish lashings.

With practice, this can be easily tied with one hand – especially useful for sailors!

Tip. If you are in a situation where the clove hitch may unroll, add a couple of half hitches with the running end to the standing end of the knot, turning it into a “Clove Hitch and Two Half Hitches”!

Tip. When pioneering, use the Round turn and two half hitches to start and finish your lashings instead of the Clove Hitch. It won’t unroll, and is easier to finish tying off. It just does not look so neat!

WHIPPING

Whipping:

Whipping the end of a rope will make it look nicer and keep it from unravelling. This will help the rope to last longer.

Step 1

Cut a piece of twine about 12 inches long for each end of the rope.

Step 2

Make a loop of the twine, and lay the portion of the loop along side the end of the rope, with one end of the twine extending past the end of the rope.

Step 3

Holding one side of the loop, start wrapping the loop around the end of the rope about a half inch back. Wrap the twine aroudn the end of the rope about 10 or 12 times.

Step 4

Pull the two ends of the twine. This should pull the twine tight and secure.

Step 5

Trim ends of the twine.

Step 6

Repeat for other end of rope

DWITIYA SOPAN

1) MARLINE SPIKE HITCH-

2) SQUARE LASHING-

Square lashings are used to bind together two spars that are at right angles with one another.

i) Place the poles on the ground in the shape of a cross. Tie a clove hitch around the bottom pole near the crosspiece. Twist the free end of the rope around its standing part and tuck it out of the way.
ii) Make three or four wraps around the spars, keeping the rope very tight. As you form the wraps, lay the rope on the outside of each previous turn around the crosspiece, and on the inside of each previous turn around the bottom pole.
iii) Then wind three or four frapping turns around the wrapping to tighten the lashing as much as you can.
iv) Finish it off with another clove hitch.

3) ESTIMATION - HEIGHT AND DISTANCE

4) ESTIMATION - DISTANCE AND HEIGHT

5) ESTIMATION-

Learning to Judge Distance

As a means of checking your estimates, learn the exact length of your pace. If fairly tall, learn to pace an exact yard, heel to heel. On a quiet road, in a field, or out on the prairie, begin judging short distances to various objects, then pacing to check your “guess.” Gradually increase the distances. Do this in competition with several other Scouts and you’ll find it an interesting game. Remember that the eye measures distance as in an “air line,” from eye to object, and does not allow for irregularities of the ground. In other words, ground distance may be greater than visual distance.

As an aid in making short measurements you should know a number of your personal measurements. Your known hand-span will often be particularly useful. If fully developed your measurements will be close to this:

Breadth of thumb, and nail joint of forefinger = 1 inch (2.54 centimeters).

Span of the thumb and forefinger = 6.5″ (or 17 centimeters).

Span of thumb and any other finger = 8.5″ (or 21.6 centimeters).

Wrist to elbow = 10″ (or 25 centimeters).

Elbow to tip of forefinger = 17″ (or 43 centimeters).

Your reach, arms out-stretched, will nearly equal your height.

Some Further Hints

	At 1/2 mile or approximately 880 yards (or 800 meters) a man looks a post.
	At 770 yards (or 700 meters) the head is not yet visible.
	At 660 yards (or 600 meters) the head is visible as a dot.
	At 550 yards (or 500 meters) the shoulders appear bottle shaped.
	At 1/4 mile, or approximately 440 yards (or 400 meters) movements of the legs can be seen.
	At 330 yards (or 300 meters) the face can be seen.
	At 220 yards (or 200 meters) buttons and details of clothing are recognizable.
	At 110 yards (or 100 meters) eyes and mouth can be seen clearly.

To estimate greater distances, judge the farthest probable distance, then the nearest possible, and “split the difference.”

6) IMPROVISED STRETCHER-

making improvised stretcher using blankets and poles

using poles

7) FINDING NORTH BY CONSTELLATIONS-

Star Method

(1) Less than 60 of approximately 5,000 stars visible to the eye are used by navigators. The stars seen as we look up at the sky at night are not evenly scattered across the whole sky. Instead they are in groups called constellations.

(2) The constellations that we see depends partly on where we are located on the earth, the time of the year, and the time of the night. The night changes with the seasons because of the journey of the earth around the sun, and it also changes from hour to hour because the turning of the earth makes some constellations seem to travel in a circle. But there is one star that is in almost exactly the same place in the sky all night long every night. It is the North Star, also known as the Polar Star or Polaris.

(3) The North Star is less than 1° off true north and does not move from its place because the axis of the earth is pointed toward it. The North Star is in the group of stars called the Little Dipper. It is the last star in the handle of the dipper. There are two stars in the Big Dipper, which are a big help when trying to find the North Star. They are called the Pointers, and an imaginary line drawn through them five times their distance points to the North Star. There are many stars brighter than the North Star, but none is more important because of its location. However, the North Star can only be seen in the northern hemisphere so it cannot serve as a guide south of the equator. The farther one goes north, the higher the North Star is in the sky, and above latitude 70°, it is too high in the sky to be useful.

Figure . Determining direction by the North Star and Southern Cross.

(4) Depending on the star selected for navigation, azimuth checks are necessary. A star near the north horizon serves for about half an hour. When moving south, azimuth checks should be made every 15 minutes. When traveling east or west, the difficulty of staying on azimuth is caused more by the likelihood of the star climbing too high in the sky or losing itself behind the western horizon than it is by the star changing direction angle. When this happens, it is necessary to change to another guide star. The Southern Cross is the main constellation used as a guide south of the equator, and the above general directions for using north and south stars are reversed. When navigating using the stars as guides, the user must know the different constellation shapes and their locations throughout the world .

Figure . Determining Constellations, northern hemisphere.

Figure .determining Constellations, southern hemisphere.

8) SCOUT PACE-

A pace (or double-pace or passus) is a measure of distance used in Ancient Rome. It is the measure of a full stride from the position of the heel when it is raised from the ground to the point the same heel is set down again at the end of the step. Thus, a distance can be “paced off” by counting each time the same heel touches ground, or, in other words, every other step. In Rome, this unit was standardized as two gradūs or five Roman feet (about 1.48 meter or 58.1English inches). There are 1000 passus in one mille, and a mille was sometimes referred to as a mille passus.

The Byzantine pace or vema (βήμα [ˈvima]) was 2½ feet (pous)

A pace in modern terminology is usually taken as being a single pace rather than a double pace. It has no formal definition but is taken as being around 30 inches

9) COMPASS BEARING-

Bearings

A directional compass is shown below. It is used to find a direction or bearing.

The four main directions of a compass are known as cardinal points. They are north (N), east (E), south (S) and west

. Sometimes, the half-cardinal points of north-east (NE), north-west (NW), south-east (SE) and south-west (SW) are shown on the compass. The above compass shows degree measurements from 0° to 360° in 10° intervals with:

north representing 0° or 360°
east representing 90°
south representing 180°
west representing 270°

When using a directional compass, hold the compass so that the point marked north points directly away from you. Note that the magnetic needle always points to the north.

Bearing

The true bearing to a point is the angle measured in degrees in a clockwise direction from the north line. We will refer to the true bearing simply as thebearing.

For example, the bearing of point P is 065º which is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass at O with the point P (i.e. OP).

The bearing of point Q is 300º which is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass at O with the point Q (i.e. OQ).

Note:

The bearing of a point is the number of degrees in the angle measured in a clockwise direction from the north line to the line joining the centre of the compass with the point.
A bearing is used to represent the direction of one point relative to another point.

For example, the bearing of A from B is 065º. The bearing of B from A is 245º.

Note:

Three figures are used to give bearings.
All bearings are measured in a horizontal plane.

10) 16 POINTS OF A COMPASS-

Boxing the compass is the action of naming all thirty-two principal points of thecompass in clockwise order.

Navigational compass mariner‘s compass (Larger)
#	Compass point	Abbreviation	True Heading
1.	North	N	0.00°
2.	North by east	NbE	11.25°
3.	North-northeast	NNE	22.50°
4.	Northeast by north	NEbN	33.75°
5.	Northeast	NE	45.00°
6.	Northeast by east	NEbE	56.25°
7.	East-northeast	ENE	67.50°
8.	East by north	EbN	78.75°
9.	East	E	90.00°
10.	East by south	EbS	101.25°
11.	East-southeast	ESE	112.50°
12.	Southeast by east	SEbE	123.75°
13.	Southeast	SE	135.00°
14.	Southeast by south	SEbS	146.25°
15.	South-southeast	SSE	157.50°
16.	South by east	SbE	168.75°
17.	South	S	180.00°
18.	South by west	SbW	191.25°
19.	South-southwest	SSW	202.50°
20.	Southwest by south	SWbS	213.75°
21.	Southwest	SW	225.00°
22.	Southwest by west	SWbW	236.25°
23.	West-southwest	WSW	247.50°
24.	West by south	WbS	258.75°
25.	West	W	270.00°
26.	West by north	WbN	281.25°
27.	West-northwest	WNW	292.50°
28.	Northwest by west	NWbW	303.75°
29.	Northwest	NW	315.00°
30.	Northwest by north	NWbN	326.25°
31.	North-northwest	NNW	337.50°
32.	North by west	NbW	348.75°

Before the Magnetic Compass was discovered, early map makers would draw a small 16 pointed circle on the map, and place an “N” to point to North. These were the 16 Cardinal Points from which the winds were thought to blow. This drawing was called a “Wind Rose.” When the magnetic compass came along, it was usually set on top of the Wind Rose pattern in order to help face the nautical chart in the proper direction. The wind rose started to become known as a COMPASS ROSE.

Since the 1100’s, compass bearings have been split into 16 different directions:
North – North North East – North East – East North East – East

East – East South East – South East – South South East – South

South South West – South West – West South West – West

West North West – North West – North North West – North
This was all the accuracy a Mariner’s Compass had to offer then. By today’s standards, it was not very accurate. As spherical mathematics improved, it became more customary to give bearings in units of “Degrees” from Geographic North. In the 1920’s, it became an accepted practice to indicate direction, called HEADING or BEARING, by a single number (0 to 360) representing degrees of a circle as measured clockwise from True North.

The development of the compass instrument itself represents quite an achievement, however the actual use of this instrument is more of an art form. The Compass is not by any means a complex instrument. Anyone from 9 to 90 should be able to learn compass operation with just some practice and understanding a few simple principles.

11) WHAT IS A COMPASS-

A compass (or mariner’s compass) is navigational instrument for finding directions. It consists of a magnetised pointer free to align itself accurately withEarth‘s magnetic field. A compass provides a known reference direction which is of great assistance in navigation. The cardinal points are north, south, east and west. A compass can be used in conjunction with a clock and a sextant to provide a very accurate navigation capability. This device greatly improved maritime trade by making travel safer and more efficient.

A compass can be any magnetic device using a needle to indicate the direction of the magnetic north of a planet’s magnetosphere. Any instrument with a magnetized bar or needle turning freely upon a pivot and pointing in a northerlyand southerly direction can be considered a compass. A compass dial is a small pocket compass with a sundial. A variation compass is a specific instrument of a delicate type of construction. It is used by observing variations of the needle. A gyrocompass can also be used to ascertain true North.

12) MORSE CODE-

In the Morse Code letters are formed by a series of dots and dashes by using a Morse Key attached to a buzzer. Because of its adaptability, Morse Code is more useful than Semaphore, but it requires much practice to become proficient.

Morse Code signals and their meaning:

VE VE VE Calling up signal

K Carry On. (Answer to VE, if ready to receive message)

Q Wait. (Answer to VE if not ready to receive message.)

T General answer

AAA Period or decimal

AR End of message

R Message received correctly

8 dots Erase.

GB Good Bye. (used when closing down)

13) SEMAPHORE SIGNALING-

Semaphore signaling is used mainly for short distance communications.

Some points to remember:

	Signaling is useful only when it can be read. The letters must be made perfectly and must be clearly seen.
	The sender must exactly face the person they are signaling. They must stand firmly, with the feet apart.
	The flags must be at arms reach, arm and flag making a straight line.
	The arms must be in the exact position for each letter.
	When making T, O, and W the flags must not cover one another.
	When making double letters bring the flags in to the body after the first letter.
	Do not send too quickly. Never send faster than the other person can read. 14) SIGNALING- Signaling is well worth knowing. It is good fun to be able to signal your friend across the street without other people understanding what you are talking about. Before the development of telephones or radios, signal codes allowed many people to communicate over long distances. Telegraph operators used Morse Code to send messages around the world. Sailors used both Morse and Semaphore to pass messages between ships. It is still makes an exciting hobby for licensed amateur radio operators. While there are few practical applications for these signaling methods in today’s world, they are useful to know in case of an emergency. 15) PRECAUTIONS - GAS LEAK

Safe Handling of LPG

LPG gases are combustible and highly flammable. LPG can burn or explode when it comes in contact with air or a source of ignition. It has the potential to create a disaster. Since LPG is stored under pressure, it can leak from any joint or improperly sealed connection. Awareness or knowledge of safe handling LPG can eliminate the chance of fire or explosion. Following are some useful tips for safe handling of LPG cylinder.

In the early morning, proper precaution is required to ensure that there no gas buildup in the room, by opening doors and windows prior to turning on the stove.

LPG containers are not to be placed in close proximity to the stove or any other sources of flame.

Ensure that the gas tube is not squashed or severely bent.

Choose an LPG supplier who can provide you with well-maintained LPG cylinders, and after-sales support.

Replace the LPG cylinder hose on a regular basis, and replace any damaged or worn hose with a new hose.

Landlords who use agents to manage properties need to ensure that tenants are aware of safe use of LPG and LPG rubber tubes they use have an ISI mark.

Never check for gas leaks using a lit match. Always use a solution of soapy water and look for bubbles coming from around valves and pipe joints. These bubbles indicate a gas leak.

After securely connecting a new or refilled cylinder, apply some soapy water to the cylinder connections and turn on the cylinder.

Any burning objects must be extinguished prior to installation of any equipment to the new LPG cylinder.

Spare cylinders should not be kept next to cylinder in use.

Do not store kerosene or other flammable equipments in the kitchen.

In order to avoid danger, cylinders and its accessories must be used according to the usage instruction.

Never switch on the electricity or light stove when LPG scents are present.

Use a child-safe regulator on the LPG cylinder for domestic use.

Using domestic cylinder for commercial purpose is illegal and if caught legal actions are taken against the consumers under the Essential Commodity Act which is forfeiture of cylinder, penalty and imprisonment up to 3 years.

It is safer to evacuate everyone from the area.

Leaking of LPG

If escaping gas is not on fire, close any valve which will stop or reduce the flow of gas.
Turn off or remove any other source of ignition.
Ventilate the room by opening doors and windows
If you think that there is a danger of a fire, inform your gas supplier or Fire Department and your neighbors immediately.

LPG is on fire

If you have a fire fighting equipment, make sure that you know how to use it, and that it is maintained regularly. If you can’t put it out, leave it to the fire brigade. It is safer to evacuate everyone from the area.

A small fire from a container may be smothered by a wet cloth or dry powder extinguisher and then it may be possible to stop the leak and remove the cylinder to a safe location.

If the gas is escaping in large quantities and has been ignited, immediately apply large quantities of water to all surfaces in the form of a jet, spray or fog.

If the only valve which can be used to stop the flow of gas is involved in the fire, consider the possibility of effecting the shut-off by approaching the valve behind a water spray. This approach should be made at right angles to the flame and the spray used to reduce the intensity of the flame but not to extinguish it.

Portable LPG cylinders should be removed to a safe location.

If you feel the situation is not under control of you, call experts or call Fire Department immediately.

15) SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WITH REGARD TO FIRE-

Outdoor Fire Safety Rules for Scouts-

A large part of scouting is going on camping trips, and there are few things as pleasant during a camping trip as sitting by a fire, telling stories, roasting marshmallows, and enjoying the warmth and glow of the flames. However, to fully enjoy this experience and to ensure that you do not lose control of the fire, you need to observe some basic fire safety rules. By building, tending and extinguishing a fire safely, you can ensure that you are upholding your promise as a scout to treat nature with respect.

Location

Whether in a remote area or within the confines of a scout camp, where fire pits may already be on-site, you need to ensure that the location of the fire is suitable. Remove all burnable debris, twigs and leaves in a 10-foot diameter circle from the spot where you plan to build your fire. This will help to ensure that the fire cannot spread easily. Make certain you do not build the fire in an area with overhanging branches or old stumps nearby. Be sure to have water and a shovel nearby so that you can extinguish the fire quickly if necessary.

Building a Fire

The fire-making process should be supervised by the scout leader. A fire does not have to be large to provide warmth. A good bed of coals and some stones surrounding the fire will produce plenty of heat. Use small twigs and leaves to start the fire and add bigger pieces of wood as the fire grows. Point the largest pieces of wood toward the center of the fire and push them inward as they burn.

Keep any additional wood stacked a safe distance from the fire. Even small gusts of wind can cause a fire to spread. Never run or play around a fire. You must always remember the potential harm that fire can cause and treat it respectfully. Never leave a fire unattended.

Extinguishing the Fire

Use plenty of water to douse the fire. Use a shovel to stir the coals so that you can be certain there are no remaining embers. Mix in dirt with the water and stir the embers some more. Repeat this process until you can safely touch the remnants of the fire with your bare hands. Be sure to clean the area around the campfire and leave the site ready for others to enjoy. Scouts should always remember that the goal is to leave a natural area as if you had never been there.

16) THROWING A LIFE LINE -

Be able to throw a life line with reasonable accuracy.

All Scout camp and other Scout “swimming holes”, should, like public

swimming pools, be equipped with a life line and lifebuoy, hanging on the pegs

of a conveniently placed post; and Scout

Be Prepared

-ness should includethe ability to throw these.

Life lines usually are of half-inch hemp or manila rope, the length depending

upon the distance concerned.

The Test

For this test a rope between 30 and 50 feet in length should beused; and the thrower should place the bowline loop within grasping reach of

the “person in difficulty” four times out of five; any kink spoiling a throw.

The line always should be pliable and free of kinks. To assure this, and

whether kept coiled on a peg or otherwise, the line should regularly be taken

down and thrown a few times, then carefully re-coiled.

Life lines at public swimming pools sometimes have a weighted end, for

throwing. These, however, can be dangerous in the hands of an inexpert rescuer.

It is safer to make a bowline in one end of the line, with the advantage

that this loop can be grasped readily by the person being rescued, and probably

drawn over his head and shoulder, which makes his rescue sure.

Coiling a Life Line

It is most important that a life line be properlycoiled. To do this (having first made a bowline), hold the bowline in the left

hand, as the first coil. Now, with a twisting overhand movement (to equalize

kink tendency when thrown), add turn against turn until completed.

Now turn the coil completely around, so that the bowline is in the right

hand, and divide it, holding two thirds in the right hand, the balance in the

left, the end securely gripped, or better yet, tied to a post or tree.

Throwing

With a single, long under-arm swing (no whirling about thehead), heave the coil, aiming at a point directly beyond the person in difficulty-

unless there is a current to allow for-at the same time opening the left hand

to allow that portion of the line to run free. (For a left-handed Scout the procedure

would be reversed.

After Use

Dry line before re-coiling.

New Rope

A new rope will require stretching. This may be done by tyingit at a “reaching” height between two suitably spaced trees, then hanging on

it. As it stretches it is tightened, until the stretch limit has been reached.

17) ANIMAL BITES

Overview

Domestic pets cause more bites

Dogs more likely to bite, cats more infectious

Risk of rabies with non-immunized pets / stray / wild animals

Raccoons, skunks, foxes, bats too carry rabies

   Symptoms

Skin break

Bruise / puncture

Cuts

Bleeding

Swelling and redness of the area

Oozing of fluid

   Treatment

Calm the affected person

Wash hands before attending to wound

Wash wound with soap & running water

Apply antibiotic ointment

Dress using sterile bandage

After first aid, medical treatment must be sought quickly

Suturing may be required

Tetanus booster / antibiotics required

Treatment depends on type / location of wound

   Prevention

Avoid keeping wild animals as pets

Choose a pet that is friendly to children

Train the pet to obey commands

Vaccinate your pet

When children are around, pets supervision is required

Avoid leaving infants alone with pets

18) INSECT BITES AND STINGS

Insect bites are, mostly, not severe

Sometimes they cause a severe allergic reaction, anaphylaxis

Anaphylaxis is life-threatening if not treated on time

Sting of bees, wasps, hornets / bite of fire ants, painful

Bites of insects, like mosquitoes, cause itching

The bite of a black widow spider can be fatal, if left untreated

   Causes Examples of biting insects

Mosquitoes

Fleas

Mites

Spiders

Examples of stinging insect

Bees

Wasps

Hornets

    Symptoms

Localized Pain

Swelling

Redness

Itching

Numbness

Burning

Tingling sensation

Breathlessness

Weakness

   Treatment

Remove the stinger using a straight- edged object

Wash the area thoroughly with soap and water

Place ice wrapped in a cloth on the affected area

Repeat after every 10 minutes

Apply a gentle cream to prevent itching

Take anti histamines if necessary

Observe for signs of infection like pain, redness or swelling

In case of emergency-

Try to keep the person calm

Check the person’s breathing

Remove constricting items, like rings, from finger/nose/ears

Do     Cardio Pulmonary Resuscitation (CPR), if necessary

If the person is carrying an emergency kit, use it

If required, treat the person for signs of shock

Seek medical help as soon as possible

   Consult a Doctor In case of the following, seek medical help

Wheezing

Swelling on the face

Difficulty in breathing

Tight feeling in the throat

Body turning blue

   Steps to Avoid

Do not remove the stinger using a tweezer

Do not apply a tourniquet

Aspirin, pain medications, should not be given unless advised by a doctor

   Prevention

Avoid placing hand near the mouth of a seizure-affected person

Take caution to prevent your child from developing biting habit.

19) BURNS AND SCALDS-

Burns are caused by dry heat, corrosive substances and friction. Scalds are caused by wet heat – hot liquids and vapours. Burns can also be produced by extreme cold, and by radiation, including the sun’s rays. Burns may be related to, or a result of, a more life-threatening situation. Fires may be started accidentally by victims of drug or alcohol overdose. An explosion, or jumping from a burning building, may cause other serious injuries. When burns have been treated, the casualty should be thoroughly examined.

Assessing a Burn

There are a number of factors to consider when assessing the severity of a burn and the method of treatment, including the cause of the burn, whether the airway is involved, the depth of the burn, and its extent.

The extent of the burn will indicate whether shock is likely to develop, as tissue fluid (serum) leaks from the burned area and is replenished by fluids from the circulatory system. The greater the extent of the burn, the more severe the shock will be. The cause of the burn may also signal any other possible complications. Burns also carry a serious risk of infection, which increases according to the size and depth of the burn. The body’s natural barrier, the skin, is destroyed by burning, leaving it exposed to germs.

Depth of Burns

Burns can be categorised as follows:

Superficial burns

These involve only the outer layer of the skin, and are characterised by redness, swelling and tenderness. Typical examples are mild sunburn, or a scald produced by a splash of hot tea or coffee. Superficial burns usually heal well if prompt first aid is given, and do not require medical treatment unless extensive.

Partial-thickness Burns

These damage a ‘partial thickness’ of the skin, and require medical treatment. The skin looks raw, and blisters form. These burns usually heal well, but can be serious, if extensive. In adults, partial-thickness burns affecting more than 50% of the body’s surface can be fatal. This percentage is less in children and the elderly.

Full-thickness Burns

These damage all layers of the skin. Damage may extend beyond the skin to affect nerves, muscle and fat. The skin may look pale, waxy, and sometimes charred. Full-thickness burns of any size always require immediate medical attention, and usually require specialist treatment.

Extent of Burns

The area of a burn gives an approximate indication of the degree of shock that will develop and, in conjunction with depth, can be used as a guide to the required level of treatment. The ‘rules of nine’ is a guide used to calculate the extent of a burn as a percentage of the body’s total surface area, and to assess what level of medical attention is required.

In an otherwise healthy adult:

Any partial-thickness burn of 1% or more (an area approximating to that of the casualty’s hand) must be seen by a medical practitioner.

A partial-thickness burn of 9% or more will cause shock to develop, and the casualty will require hospital treatment.

A full-thickness burn of any size requires hospital treatment.

Severe Burns and Scalds

The priority is to cool the injury; the longer the burning goes unchecked, the more severely the casualty will be injured. Resuscitate the casualty only when cooling is underway. All severe burns carry the danger of shock.

Treatment of Severe Burns and Scalds

DO NOT overcool the casualty; this may dangerously lower the body temperature.

DO NOT remove anything sticking to the burn; this may cause further damage and cause infection.

DO NOT touch or interfere with the injured area.

DO NOT burst blisters.

DO NOT apply lotions, ointment, or fat to the injury.

Lay the casualty down, protecting the burned area from contact with the ground, if possible.

Douse the burn with copious amounts of cold liquid. Thorough cooling may take 10 minutes or more, but this must not delay the casualty’s transmission to hospital.

While cooling the burns, check airway, breathing, and pulse, and be prepared to resuscitate.

Gently remove any rings, watches, belts, shoes, or smouldering clothing from the injured area, before it starts to swell. Carefully remove burned clothing unless it is sticking to the burn.

Cover the injury with a sterile burns sheet or other suitable non-fluffy material, to protect from infection. A clean plastic bag or kitchen film may be used. Burns to the face should be cooled with water, not covered.

Ensure that the emergency service is on its way. While waiting, treat the casualty for shock. Monitor and record breathing and pulse, and resuscitate, if necessary.

Burns to the Mouth and Throat

Burns to the face, and burns in the mouth or throat are very dangerous, as they cause rapid swelling and inflammation of the air passages. The swelling will rapidly block the airway, giving rise to a serious risk of suffocation. Immediate and highly specialised medical assistance is required.

Treatment of Burns to the Mouth and Throat

Contact the emergency service. Report suspected burns to the airway.

Take any steps to improve the casualty’s air supply, e.g., loosening clothing around the neck. Give the casualty oxygen if you are trained to do so.

If the casualty becomes unconscious, place in the recovery position, and be prepared to resuscitate.

Minor Burns and Scalds

Minor burns and scalds are usually the result of domestic accidents. Prompt first aid will generally enable them to heal naturally and well, but the advice of a medical practitioner should be sought if there is doubt as to the severity of the injury.

Treatment of Minor Burns and Scalds

DO NOT use adhesive dressings.

DO NOT break blisters, or interfere with the injured area.

DO NOT apply lotions, ointments, creams, or fats to the injured area.

Cool the injured part with copious amounts of cold water for about 10 minutes to stop the burning and relieve the pain. If water is unavailable, any cold, harmless liquid such as milk or canned drinks will suffice.

Gently remove any jewellery, watches, or constricting clothing from the injured area before it starts to swell.

Cover the injury with a sterile dressing, or any clean, non-fluffy material to protect from infection. A clean plastic bag or kitchen film may be used

20) SPRAINS-

Sprain is the stretch/tear of ligament connecting ones

Occurs in both the upper & lower part of the body

Most common sites – ankle/wrists/knee

   Causes

Trauma/accidents

Lifting heavy objects

Sporting injuries

    Symptoms

Pain

Swelling

Lumps other than swelling

Bruising/redness at site of injury

Numbness

Inability to move the joint

   Treatment

Apply a cold compress to injured area for 20 min

This may be done 4-8 times a day

Use a plastic bag with crushed ice, wrapped in a towel

Use compression bandages to reduce swelling

Keep the injured leg elevated on a pillow

Take anti inflammatory pills if necessary

Take rest for the recommended period

When pain/swelling is diminished, do recommended exercises

   Consult a doctor If the following occurs-

Severe pain/numbness

Inability to move the joint

Inability to assess the severity of injury

   Steps To Avoid

Do not return to normal activities if not completely cured

This could lead to the problem turning chronic

   Prevention

Avoid exercising/sporting when tired

Eat a well balanced meal-for healthy muscles

Avoid unhealthy weight gain

Exercise daily-particularly stretching exercises

Do warm-up before exercising

Practice safety measures, like avoiding clutter

Run on even surface .Do not wear ill-fitting shoes

21) BLEEDING FROM NOSE-

A nose bleed occurs when a small vein, along the lining of nose, bursts • Most nosebleeds look scary, but are harmless • Can be treated at home • Common in children/elderly

Causes • Dryness • Nose picking • Blowing nose with force • Use of medications, like aspirin • Introducing objects into nose (mostly children) • Injuries • Allergies • Infections • High BP • Atherosclerosis • Blood-clotting disorders • Use of cocaine Symptoms •

Bleeding from nose • Sometimes bleeding from ears/mouth too Types a. Anterior Nosebleed • Affects lower part of wall that separates nostrils • The wall or septum contains blood vessels • These can be broken by blow to nose/fingernail • The bleeding starts from front of nose • It flows outward when patient is sitting/standing • Occurs during dry season/harsh winter b. Posterior Nosebleed • The bleeding starts deep within the nose • It flows down the back of the mouth & throat • This happens even when the person is sitting/standing • Occurs in old people/those with high BP/injuries • This type of bleeding is severe/ requires medical help

Treatment • If your nose bleeds, • Sit down and lean forward • Using your thumb & index finger, squeeze soft part of nose • This part is between end of nose and the bridge of nose • Continue holding till bleeding stops- • Do not stop in-between • If bleeding continues, hold for another 10 minutes • If the patient is a child, divert attention by TV/Stories • Avoid picking, blowing or rubbing nose for 2 days • Place an ice pack on the bridge of nose Consult a Doctor If, • The bleeding continues for more than 15 minutes • The bleeding is caused by an injury • You get nosebleeds often

Prevention • Keep fingernails short • Quit smoking • Open your mouth while sneezing • Use a humidifier at night in case of dry weather Read more: Nose Bleed – First Aid and Emergency Treatment Guide.

22) FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOT

A useful “Stop” knot to temporarily bulk out the end of a rope or cord, the finished knot looks like its name. It is superior to using a Thumb Knot, because it does not jam so easily.

Tip: The Figure of Eight is useful to temporarily stop the ends of a rope fraying, before it is whipped.

23) ROLLING HITCH-

One of the most underated knots in Scouting and Guiding, the Rolling hitch is used to attach one rope to a second, in such a manner that the first rope can be easily slid along the second.

The knot can be considered a Clove hitch with an additional turn.

When tension is applied and the ropes form a straight line, the rolling hitch will lock onto the first rope. When the tension is released, the hitch can be loosened and slid along the first rope to a new location.

The tension must be applied on the side of the knot with the extra turn.

Tip. Use this knot if you have a guy rope with no adjuster. Create a loop on the end of a second rope which is slipped over the peg. Use a rolling hitch to attach the second rope to the guyline. Alternatively, take the guyline around the peg and tie the Rolling hitch back onto the standing part of the guyline, above the peg, thus forming an adjustable loop. This is known as the Tautline Hitch in America.

Tip. Use this knot when constructing camp gadgets such as a suspended table. A Rolling hitch in each suspension rope will allow easy adjustment and a level table!

Tip. When adjustments are complete, lock the rolling hitch into place by using a stop knot such as a Figure of Eight in the first rope, below the Rolling hitch, to stop it slipping.

23) TIBER HITCH-

As well as being used to start a diagonal lashing, a timber hitch can be used as a temporary knot when you need to drag, tow or lift a log or pole.

24) SHEER LASHING-

or sheer legs, where the spars are opened to form an inverted ‘V’.

Line up the ends of the spars

Start with a timber hitch or clove hitch round one spar

Continue with 8 to 10 turns round both spars – these turns should be neat and firm but not too tight.

Do three frapping turns and finish with a clove hitch on the second spar (a) and (b).

The lashing tightens as the sheer legs are opened which is why the first turns round the spars should not be too tight or it will not be possible to open the legs as required (C).

Introduction

A sheer lashing is often sued to bind adjacent poles together. It is also a good way to reinforce a broken or weak pole. The frapping turns used to tighten the lashing may be omitted and replaced with wedges inserted between the poles.

A loose Sheer Lashing made around the ends of two poles will allow the poles to be opened out and used as an A-frame. It can also be used to form a tripod just like the Figure-of-eight lashing.

Step by Step Guide

Lay out the poles. For most lashings you will want to lay the poles side by side with the butt ends aligned (thicker ends).

Tie a clove hitch around one of the outside poles and secure the standing part by wrapping it around the running part (or trap it under the first turns).

Note: If you only lashing two poles together or are using the lashing to ‘extend’ a pole it may be better to simply tie the clove hitch around both poles and pull tight. Be sure to leave a long end on the Clove Hitch for the last step.

Pass the rope around the poles to form a first turn.

Pulling each turn tight made a series of turns until the lashing is at least as long as the combined diameters of the two poles (usually a set of 4 to 6 turns will be sufficient).

Tighten the lashing with a frapping turn by taking the rope down between two poles at one end of the turns. This should be difficult to do if the turns have been pulled tightly (as they should be). Bring the rope back up between the poles at the other end of the lashing and pull tight. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

Start the second set of frapping turns by taking the rope around the centre pole and frapping. Take the second set of frapping turns in the opposite direction to the first set.

Repeat for any additional poles.

Pass the rope once more between the poles then around one pole and tuck it under itself to form a half hitch. Pull this tight and make a second half hitch forming a clove hitch by taking the rope around the same pole and tucking it under itself.

Once the final Clove Hitch is tied be sure to leave a ‘long end’.

24) PARALLEL OR ROUND LASHING

For joining two spars to increase the overall length eg- when making a flag pole –

It is important to have a good overlap of spars – between a quarter and a third of their length.

Start with a clove hitch or timber hitch round one of the spars near the end of the overlap.

Wrap the rope neatly and tightly round both spars for 8 – 10 turns (a)

Finish with a clove hitch round the second spar

Add a second lashing at the other end of the overlap so that no movement is possible (b)

To tighten further, add small wedges between the spars next to the lashings.

25) SQUARE LASHING-

A Square Lashing is used to hold two poles that cross each other (usually at a 90-degree angle although not necessarily). If the angle of contact is less than 45 degrees a sheer lashing should be used.

It can also be used where the load on one pole may cause it to slip over the other.

It is important to note that there should be no tendency for the poles to slip apart. If the force tends to separate the poles only the rope will be supporting the load.

To make this lashing as tight as possible it is important to tighten each turn as it is made. Frapping turns stabilize the lashing and tighten it further.

When tying a square lashing, the poles and the rope must be positioned properly to achieve the maximum strength. The cross pole should be positioned so that the force applied to the cross pole is directed toward the pole it is lashed to. This allows the contact between the wood to take part of the load.

Step by Step Guide

Tie a clove hitch.

The beginning clove hitch should be tied to the pole that is in line with the direction of the force and to the side of the cross pole that is opposite to the direction of the force applied. (For example, in most cases the force applied will be gravity and so the beginning clove hitch should be tied to the vertical pole and under the cross pole.)

The standing end of the rope (the bit left over so to speak) is secured by wrapping it around the running end (the bit that you use to tie the lashing). This will secure the clove hitch so that it will not slip around the pole and loosen the lashing from the inside.

Note: This is not always done. If you leave this step out ensure that when you do step 3 the clove hitch slips to one side and is securely held by the ‘pull’ of the rope in the turns. Alternatively it is recommended that you leave a ‘long end’ on the clove hitch to be used in the last step.

Wind the rope alternately behind then in front of the next two sections of the pole.

Pull on the rope to tighten it around the poles.

Take the rope over the lower part of the vertical pole and then under the next section of the horizontal pole to complete the first lashing turn. Pull the rope tight.

Complete two or three more turns to make a total of three or four turns altogether.

Note: When the turns are taken around the vertical pole they should be inside the previous turns. The ones around the cross pole should be on the outside of the previous turns. This makes sure that the turns remain parallel and hence the maximum contact between the rope and wood is maintained.

Tighten the lashing with a frapping turn by bringing the rope down over the front of the horizontal pole and behind the lower vertical pole. Pull the frapping turn tight.

Note: Try to make sure that the frapping turn does not begin by crossing the wrapping turns diagonally. Go around the cross pole (as if you were going to do a half-hitch) and then into the frapping turns. Otherwise the increased friction will make it harder to pull the wrapping turns tight and if not tied correctly the diagonal across the wrapping turns will allow the rope to move unnecessarily.

Make about three full frapping turns around the poles.

When you have finished the frapping make a half hitch around the cross pole. Tuck it under itself and pull it tight. Tie a second half hitch to form a Clove Hitch.

Note: This step should be done carefully so that no tension is lost in the lashing and so that the clove hitch can not slip around the pole allowing the lashing to loosen. If you need to trim any excess rope and tuck the long end under the lashing.

Once the final Clove Hitch is tied be sure to leave a ‘long end’.

Now tie a secure Reef Knot with the ends of the starting and finishing Clove Hitches. This should lie tightly across the lashing and should ensure that neither Clove Hitch works loose.

26) DIAGONAL LASHING-

Introduction

A Diagonal Lashing is used to bind two poles together that cross each other but do not touch (or are likely to be pulled apart) when their ends are lashed in place in a structure. Often used for securing diagonal braces used to hold a structure rigid.

When wooden poles are used in a lattice like structure a combination of Diagonal and Square lashings is used to hold them together.

The Diagonal Lashing can be used to bind poles that cross at an angle of between 90 to 45 degrees. If the angle between the poles is less than 45 degrees a sheer lashing should be used.

Note: If a square lashing was used to bind poles that do not touch the beginning clove hitch would pull the cross pole towards it causing unnecessary bowing of the cross pole and could also produce a force that would act along the length of the pole to which the clove hitch is tied. This could place unnecessary strain on other lashings and cause the structure to twist and fail.

Step by Step Guide

Tie a Timber Hitch horizontally around two poles crossed diagonally. Pull tight. Take the working end around to the back of poles ready for the first turn.

Start the wrapping turns on the opposite diagonal to the timber hitch. Pull the rope tight so that the poles contact each other. Make three full horizontal turns around both poles and over the Timber Hitch. Pull each turn tight as it is made.

Change the direction of the turns by taking the rope behindhe poles a the bottom of the lashing then to the front of the poles at the top. Try to go around the pole when changing direction to avoid crossing the first set of wrappings diagonally.

Make three vertical wrapping turns around the crossed poles tightening each turn before making the next one. Be sure to keep them parallel.

Tighten the lashing with a frapping turn by going past and around one of the poles and then threading the rope alternately behind then in front of each pole. This will help to secure the lashing.

Make two more frapping turns, pulling each one tight as it is completed.

End the lashing with a clove hitch by taking the first half hitch of the clove hitch by going past and then around one of the poles. Lock the half hitch tight against the lashing by working it tight and pulling it from below.

Take a second half hitch around the pole and work it tight against the first so that the clove hitch is locked tight against the lashing.

27) BUCKET-CHAIN METHOD-

THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT -Total Scout Notes team

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PRAVESH TO RAJYAPURASKAR

THIS BLOG PROVIDES YOU ALL ABOUT THE NOTES OF SCOUT SYLLABUS STARTING FROM

PRAVESH

TO

RAJYAPURASKAR ......................

PRAVESH

1. Have a general knowledge of scout movement.

Lord Badon powell of Giwell chief scout of the world

2. Scout law and scout promise.

SCOUT LAW

SCOUT PROMISE

3. Scout motto, sign salute and left hand shake

SCOUT MOTTO

"THE Bravest of the Braves"

4. Good Turn Every day

5. Uniform: - know the parts of uniform and how to wear it.

6. Know the composition and significance of the National flag, Bharat scouts and guides Flag and world scout flag.

NATIONAL FLAG

The National flag of India was adopted in its present from during a meeting of the constituent Assembly held on 22nd July 1947, 24 days before India’s independence from the British on 15th August 1947,

Designed by: Pingali venkayya. Tricolour “saffrom” at the top, white in the middle, and green at the bottom. In the centre, there is a navy blue wheel with 24 spokes, know as the Ashoka chakra.

THE BHARAT SCOUT AND GUIDES FLAG

The Bharat scouts and Guides flag shall be in dark blue colour, the emblem in golden yellow shall be in the centre of the flag with Ashoka chakra in blue colour.

Size of association Flag: 180 cm x 120 cm

Size of troop Flag: 120 cm x 80 cm

Size of emblem in Flag: 45 cm x 3 cm

Ratio of the Flag: 3:2

WORLD SCOUTS FLAG

The flag was approved in 1951 at the 8 the world conference held in Lisbon.

7. National anthem

The Indian national anthem, composed by Rabindranath Tagore, it was first sung at Calcutta session of Indian national congress on 27th December 1911. jana gana mana was officially adopted by the constituent. Assembly as the Indian national anthem on January 24th, 1950. Timing: 52 sec

Jana gana mana adhinayaka, jayahe

Bharata bhagya vidhata

Punjab sindhu Gujarata maratha

Dravida utkala ganga

Vindhya himachala Yamuna ganga

Uchala jaladhi taranga

Tava shubha name jage

Tava shabha ashish maange

Gahe tava jaya gatha

Jana gana mangala dayaka jaya he

Bharata bhagya vidhata

Jaya he, jaya he, jaya he

Jaya jaya , jaya, jaya he!

8. PRAYER SONG

Written by : veer deva veer LT/s former soc, Haryana, one of the freedom fighter.

Daya kar dan bhakti ka

Hamen pareamathma Dena,

Daya karana hamari atma

Men suddhata Dena.

Hamare dhyan men aoo

Prabhu ankho men bas jao.

Andheri dill men aakar ke

Param jyothi jaga Dena.

Bahado prem ki ganga

Dilon men prem ka sagar,

Hamen apas me miljulkar

Prabhu rehna sikha Dena.

Hamara kaarm ho seva,

Hamara dharm ho seva,

Sadai man ho seva ho

Sevakchar Bana Dena.

Vatan ke vaste jeena,

Vatan ke vastes marna,

Vatan per jan Fida karma

Prabhuy hamko sikha Dena.

FLAG SONG

Bharat scout guide jhanda

Uncha sada rahega,

Uncha sada rahega jhanda

Uncha sada rahega.

Neela rang gagan sa vistrut

Bhatru bhav failatha,

Tridal kamal nit teen pratigna onki yad dilate.

Aur chakr kehata hei

Prathipal agey kadam badega.

Uncha sada rahega jhanda

Uncha sada rahega.

Bharat scout rahega.

PRATHAMA SOPAN

Ø Learn about your patrol, its flag, yell or song and corner.

The National flag of India was adopted in its present from during a meeting of the constituent Assembly held on 22^nd July 1947, 24 days before India’s independence from the British on 15^th August 1947,

The Indian national anthem, composed by Rabindranath Tagore, it was first sung at Calcutta session of Indian national congress on 27^th December 1911. jana gana mana was officially adopted by the constituent. Assembly as the Indian national anthem on January 24^th, 1950. Timing: 52 sec